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The azaleas are in bloom in
Savannah’s Columbia Square. Two historic homes are here:
The Davenport House to the right, and Kehoe House to the left.
Photo ©2004
Charlie Ribbons
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Georgia’s First City
Savannah’s balmy temperatures,
historic ambience, and coastal proximity lure many physicians,
who happily find themselves in a charismatic, well-run city
with enviable medical facilities.
“Nation’s largest historic
district. Evergreen urban forest. Coastal and rural settings.
First planned city in the U.S. Twenty-one public squares.
Quaint brick streets. Architectural timeline to 1733.”
That’s the come-on
you’ll find on the Web site of the Savannah Film
Commission, which has helped
make this lush southern Georgia setting a Valhalla for some 40
Hollywood production crews, with more to come.
Forrest Gump (a.k.a. Tom
Hanks) sat on a park bench on Chippewa Square, and Jim Williams
(a.k.a. Kevin Spacey) held forth at the Mercer House on
Monterey Square. That’s where Warner Brothers filmed
“Midnight in the Garden
of Good and Evil,” John
Berendt’s quasi-novel about quirky locals, violence, and
voodoo, now known by all Savannahians as simply “The Book.”
This is The
Book’s 10th anniversary year, and tourism officials
expect yet another onslaught of visitors looking for all the
related sites. In fact, movie sites are the sole subject for
one tour company. Others do movie and literary tours. But
Savannah’s many exquisite restored homes, some older than
200 years, are still the most popular tourist sites.
“Sometimes the
streets in the Historic District are so crowded with tourists
that it’s hard to get around them,” says Jean
Soderlind, operator of Ghost Talk, Ghost Walk, the original of 27 current spook quests in a city
where apparitions add a surreal dimension and are almost a part
of everyday life. No one can say why so many dead Savannahians
choose to hang around, but Soderlind has a theory:
“Savannah is such a beautiful city,” she
says, “if you were a ghost you’d want to stay here,
too!”
Climate and historic
charm are attracting more than ghosts now. Today’s
newcomers include more and more high-level research physicians
and academics, lured by top-notch new facilities at both of the
city’s hospital campuses.
If there are crowds of
visitors, too, bring ‘em on, says Mark A. Taylor, MD, who
couldn’t be happier about living in a popular tourist
destination, since some of the faces in those crowds might be
his visiting friends. “I’ve never lived in a town
where people are happy to see me and want to go there,”
says Taylor. What’s more, “Because Savannah is
tourist-oriented, it has more to offer than equivalent-sized
towns.” Attractions include a quality arts scene
spearheaded by the world-renowned Savannah
College of Art and Design (SCAD)
and a large variety of good restaurants.
Besides its powerful arts
presence, SCAD, founded in 1978, has played a major role in
historic district restoration. Instead of locating on a new
campus somewhere in a suburb, the founders restored the old Savannah Volunteer Guard Armory as its flagship building. Today its 6,200
students are from 50 states and nearly 80 countries, and it
occupies 50 historic buildings in and near the 2.2-square-mile
district where James Edward Oglethorpe and his band of 114
English settlers broke ground in February 1733.
A narrow plan
The last of the 13 original colonies,
Georgia, unlike the others, began as a commercial enterprise
where everyone would be welcome—except Catholics, slaves,
and lawyers. The 21 sponsoring “trustees” back in
England were also wary of Jews.
The plan was for a
silk-producing empire to end import dependence, as historian
Preston Russell puts it, on “its eternal enemy,
France.” The colony would also thwart northward Spanish
expansion from Florida.
Anti-semitism melted
when in July, 1733, Dr. Samuel Nunez came ashore with a group
of 42 storm-tossed Portuguese Jews escaping the Spanish
Inquisition. He was a welcome replacement for William Cox, the
sole physician with the British group, who, ironically, had
been the first of 50 settlers who died in those first six
months. Setting the tone for an open-minded society, Nunez and
his compatriots established America’s third oldest Jewish
congregation. Its synagogue is now a stalwart landmark on
Monterey Square.
Descendants of at least two
of those first Jewish families still live in Savannah.
Today’s Minis-Gilmer Outpatient
Center at Savannah’s Candler Hospital bears witness to the Minis family’s
philanthropy. Nunez himself quickly became a civic hero during
a deadly fever epidemic. After he gave them cold baths and cool
drinks, according to Oglethorpe, “some of the sickest
experienced wonderful recoveries.”
Some later doctors
became well known, too, such as the Waring father and son, who
cared for yellow fever victims in 1820 and 1876, two of at
least 12 scourges in Savannah before Dr. Walter Reed finally
pinned the blame on the Aedes aegypti mosquito in 1900.
“There are still
a lot of bugs, especially when you walk along the river,”
Taylor admits. But at least they’re not usually lethal.
One by one, barriers
against the original three verboten groups were breached.
When a 1734 coastal
storm washed 40 Irish convicts ashore, Oglethorpe bought them
as indentured servants. They and some later Irish arrivals were
Protestants, but by 1791 there were enough Catholics to form a
church. One in five Savannahians in 1850 was Irish, and
today’s St. Patrick’s Day festivities are so big,
the event is known as “the Mardi Gras of Savannah.”
In all, the city
buzzes with 15 major festivals each year, plus more than 150
smaller celebrations.
The ban against
“that pest and scourge of mankind called lawyers”
lasted until 1755, when proliferating land disputes and crimes
made it obvious that their profession was badly needed. Today
the city has some 500 attorneys.
Oglethorpe opposed
slavery as anti-humanitarian, but it was also banned because
slaves were too expensive, there had been violent uprisings in
other colonies, and, Oglethorpe feared the colonists would
become lazy if others did their work. It was good thinking
until the labor-intensive crops of rice and cotton replaced the
silk economy.
Besides organizing
“America’s first planned city,” starting with
six grassy squares to be edged with homes and public buildings,
Oglethorpe developed a plot along the Savannah River bluff as
America’s first experimental agricultural station. (Still
known as the Trustees’ Garden, it’s home to the popular, 250-year-old Pirates’ House Restaurant, originally the home of the colony’s
gardener.) Several of the original crops , like peaches,
prospered and are still grown in Georgia. But rice and cotton
became kings, and by 1760, there were 3,500 slaves in the
colony’s population of 9,500. On the eve of the Civil
War, there were 8,000 slaves and 14,000 whites.
In today’s
world, Otis S. Johnson, Savannah’s second black mayor,
oversees a well-run city that incorporates several innovative
departments and projects. The U.S.’s second black Supreme
Court justice, Clarence Thomas, is a Savannah native.
Doctor magnet
Early colonists wanted to start new lives,
and the founding trustees had profit on their minds, but these
days Savannah attracts “immigrants,” such as
Taylor, for other reasons. “My joke is that for the last
eight years I’ve been trying to get here,” he
confides. “I got tired of cold, gray winters.”
A medical oncologist and
hematologist with Summit Cancer Care, PC, Taylor grew up and completed his college and medical
education in and near Philadelphia. But even balmy weather took
second place to overriding professional considerations.
“The medical climate is much more favorable in the
South,” he says. “There’s greater demand for
physicians here, malpractice insurance costs much less than in
the North, all the technology I need is here, and there
isn’t a specialty I have to send patients out of town for
because we don’t have it here. Most important,” he
says, “is the medical group I joined.”
While finishing a
fellowship at the University of North Carolina in 2002, Taylor
searched for partners who could mentor him in how to practice.
The Summit group filled his bill. The partners were committed
to morality and proper styles of care—and they
represented diverse areas of the country, with knowledge and
experience they could share with him.
Many a northerner has
been wary of moving to a community where tight family
traditions exclude newcomers, especially Savannah, where
it’s been said you’re not considered a real member
of society until you’ve married someone with the same
last name as yours. Not true any longer, says Taylor.
“I’m in a big melting pot in my profession.”
Not only that, in the most important context, “None of
the patients here is distrustful of Northerners.”
Ramesh Patwardhan, MD,
is in a good position to agree with Taylor. A native of Madras,
India, he came to the U.S. 31 years ago after medical school
and residency in India. He practiced in Newark, NJ and western
Oklahoma, with fellowship interludes in Omaha and at The Ellis
Fischel Cancer Center in Columbia, MO.
Patwardhan is now the
program director for the Cancer Care and Research
Pavilion (CCRP) (under
construction by St. Joseph’s/Candler Hospitals), but he
had built a large private practice as a surgical oncologist
after arriving in 1985. “People are very appreciative of
everything that one does for them,” he says. “In a
sense it’s a small-town atmosphere, still with some of
the old southern charm. “In bigger places, like Chicago,
New York, and New Jersey, people set up adversarial
relationships.”
He echoes Taylor in another
way, too. “My wife and I traveled all along the eastern
seacoast looking for a place that’s warm and friendly and
with reasonable taxes,” he remembers. A big plus for him
is that he can play tennis all year long in this green
paradise. For others, boating and water sports are the lure in
a place located on two rivers and just a few minutes from the Intracoastal Waterway, not to mention the ocean itself. And, if
Savannah’s eight golf courses aren’t enough for the
stick-and-ball addicts, Hilton Head Island, with more than two
dozen courses, is a short 45 minutes away.
Hardly any non-native
physician reveling in Savannah’s near-perennial summer
can say the climate wasn’t a draw for him. “I wear
a winter jacket ten days a year,” revels Steve Ranicki,
DC on a winter day when the best they can do in his home state
of Michigan is 40 degrees while he basks in 80 degrees and
watches azaleas burst into bloom.
William J. Hoskins, MD, had
already gazed upon paradise some time before leaving New
York’s Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center and two
top-level posts as in disease management and gynecology to
become the director of the Curtis and Elizabeth Anderson Cancer
Institute at Memorial
Health University Medical Center, the third and newest of
Savannah’s general hospitals. He and his wife already
owned a winter home on nearby Amelia Island, and he had grown
up and received his education in the near-south, with
additional training and later positions in Florida.
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