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LEFT: Albuquerque’s
International Balloon Fiesta, held each October, has more than
1,000 participants.
Photo ©2004 Ron Behrmann
RIGHT, San Felipe de Neri Church in
the center of Old Town Albuquerque is the town’s oldest
structure, built in 1706. Photo
©2004 www.marblestreetstudio.com
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Albuquerque, New Mexico (continued)
The University of New
Mexico, another long-time
Central Avenue landmark, now incorporates a medical school and
large teaching hospital. The University of New
Mexico Health Sciences Center
can boast of its own accomplishments, such as selection as one
of the top 15 major teaching performance improvement hospitals
by Solucient, a
leading provider of health-care business intelligence. UNM also
operates the Children’s Hospital.
UNM research involvement
includes studies on cerebral palsy at its neuro-imaging
facility and work on the protein genome, but a big source of
pride, especially in a rural state, is the School of
Medicine’s ranking for
the 10th time by US News & World Report as the number two school for rural medicine,
out of 144 medical and osteopathic schools. Going hand in hand
with that designation are high ratings for the College of Nursing midwifery and family nurse practitioner programs.
These programs can
translate into health services for a great number of Native
American residents who receive care at eight New Mexico clinics
funded by the federal Indian Health Service. The need is great, laments director Maria Rickert at
the Albuquerque Service Unit. “We beat the rest of the population in
almost everything—heart disease, diabetes, obesity,
alcoholism, suicide. And now cancer is approaching white
levels.”
This year, after
working with UNM physicians, an Albuquerque man published a
practical Spanish dictionary for health professionals. Both
Adair and Rothfeld believe such a tool is invaluable.
Physicians not fluent in languages of their patients are
mandated by law to hire interpreters at their own expense.
“Knowing Spanish here also enlarges your perspective and
social opportunities,” adds Adair.
Charms and alarms
Linguistic disparity is only one
difficulty for practitioners in the land of enchantment,
though. “I don’t think it’s easy to recruit
anywhere, but I think it’s harder here,” says
England, even though good research facilities seem to be a plus
in attracting cardiac specialists.
Many physicians take a
financial hit because state administrators were too
conscientious about keeping down costs in the past. Today,
Medicare payments are based on the old cost structure which, in
New Mexico, is lower than most other states. Typically high
malpractice premiums compound the dollar discomfort, and a
state gross receipts tax adds insult to injury. This tax on
services as well as goods is not reimbursed by insurance
companies or Medicare.
The good news for
hospital-employed physicians like Adair and Rothfeld is that
the employer picks up the tab for most of these expenses. Also
helpful is a recently passed bill allowing income tax
deductions for gross receipts taxes on services involving
managed care contracts for negotiated rates of reimbursement.
It’s not total exemption, but it is like going from a
pain threshold of eight to four.
Nevertheless,
there’s still some truth to “the old joke about
getting paid in million-dollar sunsets,” England comments
wryly.
For Adair, the
“sunset” is “one of the nicest climates
I’ve ever experienced. This is also one of the nicest
places in the sense that it’s got charm and it’s
got culture, but the culture isn’t overwhelming.”
It’s almost as if he’d read a paean written long
ago about the city’s healing powers:
“Albuquerque is one of the cities of the west that
is so openly, so rampantly healthy, so gloriously deluged with
vivifying sunshine and purified with healing breezes that it
invites with open arms the sick and ailing to enter its
portals.”
Closer to home, and
especially appealing to outdoor lovers, a bike trail runs
through the entire city along the Rio Grande, which itself is
the object of renewed interest from residents. Also near the
water is the Albuquerque Biological Park, incorporating a botanical garden and aquarium
focusing on fish life as it varies from headwaters to the Gulf
of Mexico. The new park complements the venerable 77-year-old
zoo not far away.
The Duke City is awash in more “civilized” forms
of culture, too, among them art galleries, symphony, chamber
music, Broadway shows, and several theaters, including the
historic KiMo, a venue for
ballet, opera, and Hispanic and contemporary theater.
“It’s the most intimate and aesthetically beautiful
theater in the state,” says its manager, Craig Rivera.
“And [it’s] probably the city’s
longest-lasting building still used for its original
purpose.”
Major league addicts
won’t see Shaquille O’Neal, Bret Favre, or Derek
Jeter, but they can watch UNM college sports, the New
Mexico Scorpions (pro hockey), New
Mexico Storm (pro soccer), and
the Albuquerque Isotopes, a Triple A baseball team.
And for true poetry afloat,
no self-respecting Albuquerquean ever misses the chance to
marvel at a skyful of color during the city’s most famous
event, the International Balloon Fiesta. The October event, which includes two magical
nighttime light shows, has ‘ballooned’ from 13
participants in 1972 to more than a thousand, some 300 of whom
live in the area year-round. The city’s high-flying
tradition dates back a century or more, when a local bartender
literally got high piloting a “gasbag” 14,000 feet
over the center of town. Scientists later figured out why he
did so well: The weather, mountain formations, and wind
characteristics make this the best place in the world for the
sport.
A new event will greet next
year’s attendees—the opening of the long-awaited Anderson-Abruzzo
International Balloon Museum.
Currently the newest museum
on the block is the ¡Explora!
Science Center, where children
can enjoy learning why wadded-up foil floats in water, how
opposing air pressure streams hold floating beach balls in
place, and how zeroes and ones are manipulated to make
computers “know” the difference between A and Z.
¡Explora! has several
companions in an area roughly known as Museum Row, including
the Museum of Natural History & Science, the Museum of
Art and History, and the National
Atomic Museum.
Two other cultural
experiences enhance the everyday Native American and Hispanic
presence throughout the city. The National
Hispanic Cultural Center
safeguards that culture’s artistic and performing
heritage. The Indian Pueblo Cultural Center, with live presentations and extensive exhibits
featuring each of the 19 New Mexico pueblos, offers an
introduction to the civilizations that pre-dated the
16th-century Spanish explorers. The pueblo peoples fought off
the conquistadors for a long time but eventually came to terms
with American settlers. Today, most of the pueblos themselves,
from the spectacular “Sky City” of Acoma to Taos in
the north, welcome visitors who want to learn about their
cultures and view their unique arts. Several of them have added
casinos for the bells-and-lights crowd.
Still, not all is hearts
and flowers in the Duke City. Life’s persistent question
for long-time resident and columnist V.B. Price is: Will
what he calls “a city at the end of the world”
survive the onslaught of too many newcomers with no commitment
to preserving the historic charm and natural wonders of the
area? Just as it was considered a frontier zone “remote
beyond compare” by 17th-century Spanish bureaucrats in
Mexico City, Albuquerque, according to Price, is set in the
middle of a true natural wilderness and still geographically
isolated from the power centers of the world. This in spite of
the fact that the area has been a trade center since the Camino
Real was established in the early 1600s, and that outsiders
have been rampant for 60 years at Kirtland
Air Force Base, the
area’s largest employer (6,500 military; 18,000-plus
civilians) and for almost as long at the Sandia National Labs.
Fearing the
worst—unfettered, homogenizing urban sprawl—Price
grieves that Albuquerque has become “a city with
amnesia—fascinating past and almost no collective
memory.” And he berates city government for lack of
leadership and failure to maintain a “unified urban
image.” He worries about the great water well in the
ground running dry from over-demand, although Gov. Bill
Richardson cleared the way in July for Albuquerque to secure
its water future at least for the next 50 years by diverting
surface water from the Rio Grande. And he weeps over the
one-style-fits-all new houses in northwest Rio Rancho, which is
home to most of the 5,500 workers “imported” by the
more recently arrived Intel Corporation.
Nevertheless, thanks to an
energetic former mayor, Jim Baca, some $450 million in public
and private money is being pumped into a 10-year rejuvenation
plan for architectural gems in Old Town and “New
Town.” (New Town is the part of the city built up after
the railroad arrived in 1880.) Some 120 new housing units in a
restored bank and high school are already occupied, with 180
people on a waiting list to fill soon-to-be-completed
apartments in a once-abandoned gymnasium. The facelift also
includes restaurants, theaters, shops, offices, five new
museums, an expansion of the Albuquerque Art and History
Museum, two retail corridors, and Tricentennial Park.
“Our mission is to creatively plan, manage and develop
downtown Albuquerque into the best mid-sized downtown in the
U.S.A.,” says Brian Morris, spokesman for the Downtown
Action Team, the group
coordinating the work.
If there’s a
lack of urban unity, that’s news to Rothfeld, the
pediatrician and 29-year-resident. Although he knows doctors
who live in such areas as the North Valley and closer to the
river or the mountains, and some in bigger, newer homes, he,
like Adair, has chosen the university neighborhood, where
“I still run into people I know wherever I go,” he
says. “In fact, my boys say, ‘Dad, it takes us so
long to go shopping because you stop to talk to
everybody!’”
“Urban sprawl is
a real issue,” says Adair, “but people are
verbalizing about not letting it happen. We’ve had some
neighborhood fights over bond issues concerning water, and
neighborhood meetings on rapid transit issues. I’ve never
been anywhere that they have done those things.
“This,” he says
with pride, “is a very active community looking forward
and not
backward.” g
Eileen Lockwood is a freelance writer
based in St. Joseph, Missouri.
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